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quality the first year out.
He learned as he went in the business after retiring from the restaurant trade— he owned “High on the Hog” in Warrenton and another restaurant in Gainesville and left because he “couldn't stand it anymore," and leaves it at that.
When he turned to wine, he worked for a friend, Jim Law of Linden Vineyard, and later another owner, Chris Pearmund of Pearmund Cellars took him under his wing.
He started by asking questions that made him apostate, questions like, “Why should Virginia wine be aged in barrels for only nine months?” “Why not three months longer?” And he answered himself, “This was a time established by circumstances (of finance) and not by design (of providing a better quality vintage). Pm a maverick, a pirate. I can't talk the Wine Spectator talk. I watch and I do. People try to complicate (wine growing and making) more than they should. It scares people off. The further up the ladder you go—they say, ‘I’m picking up tobacco and tar’ in the wine taste—the worse it gets. What is that?”
For one thing, at the Castleton Lakes, where he has installed a vineyard of Cabernet Franc and Viognier grapes for John M. Jacquemin and his family on their 360 acres, Hartman decided to protect the new
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