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By DIANE RELF
Eitemion Consumer Horticulturist
Pruning is an essential maintenance practice. It is the selective
removal^of branches without changing the plant’s natural appearance or habit of growth. Pruning should be done to improve the health of the plant by cutting out dead, diseased, broken, and overgrown branches that interfere with new growth.
Deciduous Shrubs: Prune to maintain natural form in late winter to early spring. Heavy pruning is best done when the plant is dormant and temperatures are above freezing. Wounds from pruning cuts made at this time heal readily and are less prone to winter injury.
Shrubs that flower on “new” wood (shoots that have grown during the current season) should be pruned in late winter through early spring before new growth begins. Examples: Abelia, Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii), Chastetree (Vitex AgnusCastus), Clematis, excluding the Patens Group, summer-sweet clethra, Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens), Peegee hydrangea (H.paniculata Grandi flora’), Indigo bush (Amorphid . fruticosa), Passionflower (Passiflora sp), Roseof-Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Spiraea japonica. Spiraea x bumalda, Falsespirea (Sorbaria sp), Tamarix ramosissima, Viburnum, excluding leatherleaf viburnum, American wisteria (W. frutescens).
Shrubs grown for autumn foliage or colored stems in winter should be pruned very early each spring.
Evergreen Shrubs: Most evergreen shrubs are best pruned in early spring just before new growth begins. When pruned toward the end of dormancy, evergreens will sprout new growth to hide pruning scars. Arborvitae and juniper — contain a dead zone where heavy shade causes inner needles to wither away. All cutting should be done above this zone before growth starts in spring. Yew — contains numerous dormant buds in foliage areas. Thin to laterals or tip
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