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Next morning, our earliest start so far. We had to be off at six to greet the rising sun as we embarked on a motorbarge that was to take us down the full length of the famous bathing ghats —something like three miles at a guess. As we chugged past the endless line of temples, palaces and, of course, flights of steps leading down to the water’s edge, pilgrims were already bathing in the sacred Ganga. A couple of times, we thought we saw pyres burning where the dead had been brought for cremation on the most holy of all possible sites. Our guide, himself a practicing Hindu, told us that people carry the water away for drinking. Nobody, he assured us, had ever been known to get sick from it: on the contrary, the water had medicinal
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