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the middle. We were directed to the building on our right, which turned out to be the maharajah's guesthouse. At the foot of the steps stood an elephant, waiting to provide brief rides for anybody who was interested. When those who wished had ridden round the courtyard, we were ushered into a second-floor diningroom for a lavish, English-style breakfast. As it was now something after nine o’clock, we were ready for it.
After breakfast we crossed the courtyard to the door of the palace itself. A majordomo led us through an impressive armory, with a collection spanning several cultures and centuries, through a number of galleries with family portraits, and finally into a long reception room where the Maharajah stood awaiting us. We saw before us a man of middle height, with strong features, a level eye and a gentle smile. We had been told that he is by avocation a scholar and by current occupation ViceChancellor (i.e. president) of Banaras Hindu University (the one we had visited the day before). After half a lifetime on the fringes of higher education. I would not dare claim that 1 can spot a
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