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Christmas and New Year holidays are seasons of wild mirth and disorder here.” (1773)
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Although Virginians from the earliest time celebrated the full twelve days of Christmas, New Year’s day (for years was the day for the exchange of gifts. Some of the food traditionally associated with New Year’s is thought to have been introduced by the slaves. All through the South, black-eyed peas at still cooked, with hog jowls or ham and served New Year’s day for good luck. Farther South, the peas are mixed with rice to make a dish called Hopping John. This is served with hot pepper sauce, boiled okra and baked yams. In the isolated mountain communities of Virginia the jowls were served, but with ‘‘leather britches”—the green beans
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