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The clipping this text was read from
The clipping this text was read from

The Great Wall of China was erected thousands of years ago to protect an advanced civilization from barbarian invasion. But times have changed and the shoe’s now on the other foot.

The county may soon have to build its own Great Wall of Rappahannock to protect “poor country folks” from the hordes of more “civilized” city slickers.

With all the media coverage that Rappahannock’s received lately, the natives had better arm themselves to withstand the coming onslaught. The Washington Post is but the latest to jump on the bandwagon of life in the country. The county’s newest fan is Phyllis Richman, restaurant reviewer for the big city daily, whose enchantment extends beyond The Inn at Little Washington to include just about everything within a ten mile radius. She even sticks in a map that shows the route from D.C. to here for anyone interested.

In a front page article in the Post’s July 14 Weekend supplement, Richman praises The Inn from appetizer to dessert. She describes the dinner entrees as “often exciting”, simple but with an “imaginative touch to each” ranging from “moist and sweet and buttery” trout amandine to "impeccable” softshell crabs. Apparently, her favorites were the desserts as she personally vouched for four of the five tarts on the menu plus three * frozen desserts.

The Inn, according to Richman, has “the advantages of youth” in Chef Patrick O’Connell and maitre d’ hotel Reinhardt Lynch who have enough drive and energy to trek to D. C. for softshell crabs, turn out ten different desserts from scratch every evening, dip mint leaves in chocolate for a garnish and organize a list of 11 aperitif wines to compensate for lacking a liquor license. Richman describes the dining room decor as “part manse, part tearoom” balancing between the “sophistication of a sevenfoot gilded mirror with the ingenious touch of hanging lamps of baskets, the tall white candles on polished cherrywood tables with paper doily placemats.” The service, she says, is “well rehearsed, knowledgeable, smooth.”

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