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By DIANA BIRD
Rappahannock Newa Contributing Writer
Traveling in Mongolia on the Orient Express train from Beijing to Moscow, I had the opportunity to observe a traditional society that has stepped far enough into modern times at its capital of Ulan Bator to please the tastes of Westerners. Comfortable accommodations are available in an up-to-date looking city, yet a toy-appearing Buddhist temple complex is filled with twenty chanting Buddhists in red robes worshipping in an atmosphere redolent of incense.
Beside one stage-set looking building at right angles to the temple, the faithful are lined up to purchase incense and holy water. Devout citizens bring money to the monks, one of whom is eager to help the crowd file around the chanting men in the small temple so that everyone can have a chance to hear the service and make donations to the monks. Many of the latter are young fellows concentrating on songs recorded on the traditional oblong pieces of paper full of Mongolian calligraphy. Observing practicing Buddhists of this sort puzzles Westerners who often cannot imagine how this religion could be meaningful to anyone. I have seen a Japanese
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