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The factors that have made wedding more formal and more expensive are also shaping the new look of wedding dresses.

"Today, we have a bride who is typically between 25 and 35 years old,” says Rikki Cohen, sales manager for The Diamond Collection. “She is a young woman with a good sense of herself who wants a dress that reflects her own style. She is not going to be governed by her mother's dream.”

As a result, there is a much wider choice than there used to be, according to Cohen and others. There are more fabrics, styles and price ranges to choose from and there are also more companies making bridal dresses, including a number from Taiwan, says -Vivian Dessy, a designer of bridal and bridesmaid’s dresses.

The traditional formal dress with a long train is enjoying great popularity but styles that reflect more sophistication are also being seen in bridal departments and shops, including, for example, sheaths and many shorter lengths^

This year, there seems to be more back interest in dresses than usual. Besides bustle bows and sashes, one idea shown recently was a dress with a high front and a plunging back worn by a young woman whose long hair was ornamented with roses.

In general, bridal styles for spring seem very romantic. Some styles include pale pastel gowns, puffy sleeves and multicolor beading on white lace bodices.

Oscar de la Renta, in his first bridal collection, for example, offered dresses featuring pale pink silk taffeta, big sleeves and ruffles as well as drifts of white tulle shirred around a long torse.

In keeping with the decora

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