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tomb is Shah Jehan himself. His wife has the center place because the mausoloum was designed for her. He intended to build himself a matching tomb, in black marble, on the opposite bank of the river, but his rebellious son thought otherwise. So when he died, he was tucked in alongside his wife.
Naturally, we had to see the real tombs. We did not guess what we entailed. The entrance to the crypt begins in an unguarded hole in the floor between the doorway and the mock tombs. A stairway eight or ten feet wide and going down perhaps fifteen feet falls away before
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