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palaces and temples in Seoul, guides are careful to point out the depredations of their Japanese occupiers. Many palace buildings bear signs saying they were rebuilt • following the Japanese departure. . Some even say they were rebuilt in the early 17th century, after the Hideyoski invasion of Korea of the late 1590s, when Samyongdang had led his militant monks. The Koreans have little love for the Japanese.
The monk continued, low and fast: “They came to our temple and desecrated it. They broke open the stupas of our founders and urinated in them. They cast their ashes into the stream which they also defiled. They burned our temple and killed many of our monks. Some were taken away as slaves. They forbade our language, tried to destroy us as a people. These writings were only saved by brave monks who took them into, the mountains and hid them there for many years.
The monk paused, and looked down sadly. It was a sad story, I thought, and one repeated many places throughout the peninsula. As we sat quietly, J thought of the An Chung-gun museum in Seoul. In 1909, just before the final blow of annexation, An Chung-gun killed Japan’s first Resident-General to Korea as he stood on a train station platform in Manchuria with several foreign diplomats. The contemporary western press branded him a terrorist, but to the Koreans An Chung-gun was and is a patriot. Small wonder. I looked at our host, trying again to guess his age. My guide book said the desecration of Samyongdang’s stupa had occurred in 2940. I tried to picture this old ' -r - . <T ... . . ,
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