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avenues, open spaces and widely scattered buildings, mostly of recent vintage and opulent character —embassies and the like. Later, we were to see that Old Delhi, capital of the Mogul emperors, which lies north of the new city, is quite different. Like most Asian cities we have seen,, it is a densely packed mass of rather shabby buildings and pullulating humanity. Rapid growth has outdated the reference books, but \. e were told that the population of Delhi as a whole is now of the order of six-and-a-half million, placing it among the dozen or so biggest cities of the world. Amid the familiar to rent cars, trucks and buses, we saw bicycles in unAmerican numbers, not to mention cows that ambled nonchalantly down the middle of the road, dextrously dodged t>y vehicular traffic. If this had not told us what country we were in. the varied and colorful costumes of the people we passed would have removed all doubt. They were as oddly and peasingly familiar as the very different clothes we had seen on our first day in China, long years ago.
Having at last left the city behind, we were driven twenty or thirty kilometers into the country. (We noticed that, officially at least, perhaps as a small gesture of breaking with the past, the new India no longer measures road, rail and air distances in miles.) There we were put down at the gates of a splendid estate, the country retreat, it seemed, of the Oberoi family, owners of one of India's foremost hotel chains. We walked up a long driveway, between manicured lawns, flowerbeds, orchards
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