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The next day we took the bridge (built only in 1988) from La Rochelle to lie de Re, a distance of about eight miles (there’s a hefty round-trip toll of the equivalent of $27 at the time we went which one pays going). This island, we knew from our research, is great for biking; it’s scenic and practically flat with many seaside trails. We rented our bikes in La Flotte, a quaint little village abounding with port-side cafes serving up huge platters of seafood. The island is criss-crossed with biking trails closed to traffic and we chose to ride up to Ars en Re, about 3/4 of the way to the end of the island and stopped for a lunch of, you guessed it, generous platefuls of seafood salad. We then doubled back through Loix and St. Martin de Re stopping often to admire the salt marshes, which enriched La Rochelle merchants in the 17th and 18th cen-, turies, and the miles and miles of blooming hollyhocks by the roadsides. The salt museum is a good place to stop and browse; we picked up a few authentic lie de Re bottles of salt to bring back as gifts (it’s a thicker granule than our regular table salt, and a little goes a long wav).
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