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We crossed the Gironde River north of Bordeaux on a ferry which runs from Blaya, originally a Roman fortressed town, to Lamarque and entered Medoc country with its sweeping v istas of v ineyards on either side. We spent one night at the Relais Margaux, an attractive neo-classical style hotel with pleasant gardens and a pool, in the town of the same name and noted the Japanese and American buyers who were visiting the winemakers’ chateaux. Other surrounding towns had names like Saint Emilion and Mouton Rothschild (sound familiar?).
Our next destination was not Bordeaux, though we stopped for an afternoon walk to see some of the grand 18th century monumental buildings such as the Grand Theater and the Place de la Bourse on the quai bordering the Garonne River. We drove through the peculiar area known as the Landes de Gascogne which is a vast area of 3 1/2 million acres planted in pines and other evergreens to keep the soil from converting into dune and washing away into the sea. A hundred years ago sand from the Atlantic (technically the Gulf of Gascogne) w as eating away at
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