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that graze on the aromatic grasses of the brackish salt-meadow pastures along the seashore.

A culinary speciality of Brittany unrelated to the sea is the crepe, or pancake. A food of great adaptability, crepes are offered everywhere in Brittany.

Rich sauces are rarely used in Brittany except in the Loire Valley. Beurre blanc, a reduction of shallots, wine, and vinegar to which butter is added was conceived to counteract the dryness of freshwater fish. This sauce has become so popular that any excuse to eat it is used. With an abundance of fine-quality raw materials, these cooks produce some of the simplest and heartiest of French provincial dishes. Agriculturally, Normandy is a rich region. Norman sheep are considered to provide the best lamb in France. Chicken, vegetables, fish, veal, and soup typically are prepared with cream and butter by the Normans. Fish is another speciality of Normandy. Shellfish is also abundant.

Normandy is the principal applegrowing area of France, and apples are an important ingredient in Norman cooking. In addition to their use in preserves and jellies, apples are used to prepare many of the regional meat and poultry specialities. Although most rich meals end with cheese and fruit, Normans are highly proficient in the fine art of dessert making. Apples, poached, baked, and in pies and tarts are a natural choice for desserts of the region.

Normandy’s particularly good agricultural produce, its fine pasturage for the raising of cattle and sheep, its production of rich butter, cream and cheese, and the availability and variety of fish, fruits, game, and poultry, have combined to create one of the most highly developed cuisines in France.

Chicken with tarragon

Preparation time 20 minutes

Cooking time 55 minutes

Serves 4

1 (3-lb.) chicken

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 bunch tarragon

1/2 c. dry white wine

3 tablespoons butter

1-1/4 c. heavy cream

Joint the chicken into 4 portions, each including one of the limbs, mm) season.

Set aside 2 sprigs of tarragon; (dace the remainder in the white wine with freshly ground pepper and simmer gently for 7-8 minutes.

Melt the butter hi a shallow frying pan and brftwn the chicken portions over a low heat until golden. Turn several times and take care they do not overcook.

Cook for 40-45 minutes, sprinkling from time to time with a little of the tarragon wine. Wait until it has evaporated each time before adding more.

When the chicken is cooked, re

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