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place protective lath structures around their shrubs every winter.
Another preventive approach, suitable for large American or tree boxwood as well as upright yews, junipers, and arborvitaes, is tying the plant. Secure a stout cord on a lower branch and wrap it in an upward spiral while pressing the boughs upward and inward. Simply tie them each fall and untie them each spring to avoid snow damage.
Knocking off snow as it accumulates helps avoid breakage, but this works best if done several times during the blizzard instead of once after the snow stops falling. Using a broom, sweep your plants with gentle upward motion before the snow turns to ice.
As spring draws closer, yellow and brown leaves will appear on evergreen branches broken by snow. Prune now if the damage is obvious, otherwise wait until spring.
When snow covers grass for long period, snow mold disease can be a problem. The fungus usually attacks leaves only, but it can kill the whole turfgrass plant. Irregularly circular patches of grass typically look offcolor when the snow melts, then turn whitish or pinkish. Intensively cultivated turfs, such as golf greens, are sprayed to prevent snow mold, but home lawns require no chemical treatment.
You can minimize the disease by controlling thatch and avoiding excessive nitrogen in late fall. Don’t skip the last mowing of the year; a well-groomed lawn is much less vulnerable to snow mold than an overgrown lawn that will mat down under the snow. Snow mold is common in shady lawns with poor drainage.
Go easy on the de-icing salt as you cope with winter. Plant roots may be injured by an overdose of sodium and chloride. If the ice lingers, consider spreading sand, sawdust, or cinders instead of salt.
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