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often used as spades and shovels, should be considered for the services of lifting manure, leaves, bark mulch and compost-turning.
As always, it is much easier to do a task with the correct tool, and to do this one needs to find the specific tools which suit the gardener as well as the job. The tools will shape the gardener as much as the gardener desires to shape the garden with tools!
Look for good, strong ash handles with comfortable "D” or "DY hand holds and those which have blades and handle-sockets forged from a single piece of metal. Clarington Forge, Samuel Parks, Sorby and Hutton and Gardening Tools of Maine are good brands. There are stainless steel tools, which clean up well and penetrate heavy soils easily. I like them excepting that it is hard to find them without plastic handles. With wood handled tools, it is possible to buy replacements if they should break. If you buy very good tools, that should not happen, though. In fact fine tools should last at least a lifetime, if cared for well, cleaned, oiled and stored out of rain. As with any work, I find it much more motivating and appealing to work with beautiful tools — they beg to be used.
Some other gardening devices and accessories I find helpful are Wellies, traditional Scottish rubber boots; grass shears, a soil thermometer; a sprayer for foliar feeds of fish and seaweed; an asparagus knife and a retractable metal tape mea- ’ sure. With the latter object, it is a very good idea to have your own for the garden and not raid the closest woodworkers toolbox!
A Japanese farmer's knife has also come in handy for dividing plants and cutting roots. For sowing seeds, dibbers or dibbles (they are called both) will make precise holes and some jute
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