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served informally around the fireplace.

Give yourself and a few good friends a break and serve raclette • a melted cheese dish that prepares itself while you trim the tree, catch up with friends, get to know your friends’ children, and, in general, do the things that promote Christmas spirit.

Although fast and easy, raclette is not a meal that you'll feel like apologizing for. Its success depends on good cheese, a good wine, fresh French ; bread of excellent quality, a fresh garlicky salad with the bite of raw lode, tiny firm Brussels sprouts, pickled onions and small pickled gherkins, and sweet new potatoes. Pass a bowl of oranges, tangerines and walnuts in the shell for dessert.

Raclette is unlike fondue in that nothing is mixed with the cheese. The potatoes, Brussels sprouts and bread are cooked, then wrapped in napkins on a table by the fire. Don’t skimp on these simple ingredients. Choose only the freshest and the best for these and the salad vegetables.

For the Swiss, racklette is a meal to eat after skiing. It’s just as suitable as a special homey meal to serve on Christmas Eve in the midst of last-minute gift wrapping and friends dropping by to deliver gifts. Make plenty, and everyone that comes can stay for a moment’s rest in a hectic day, a friendly glass of wine and a warm bite.

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