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Alain describes his art as a heritage, while Celeste insists French cooking is just another “ethnic food".
"They simply used all the things that were available to them."
The Borels compare the cooking of southern France to that of northern Italy.
"In France, cooking is the Renaissance art of the country," says Celeste with a smile.
"In Italy, the Renaissance produced art works, in France, good food."
Both Borels insist the character of their cuisine comes from following the French custom of using only fresh items.
"In France you have the open markets, you can buy the best of everything every day," says Celeste.
"If you stop at a country inn in France and order chicken," Alain explains, "they just go out back and kill one for you."
At L'Auberge, you may be as close to that French tradition as is possible in America. The Borels raise their own rabbits to provide that staple of French cooking.
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